Asphalt Roof Shingles: Types, Benefits & Maintenance

What Are Asphalt Shingles?

Asphalt roof shingles are among the most popular roofing materials in North America due to their affordability, durability, and ease of installation. They are made from a fiberglass or organic base, coated with asphalt, and topped with ceramic granules to provide protection against the elements.

How Do Asphalt Shingles Work?

Installed in overlapping layers, asphalt shingles create a watertight barrier that shields the roof from rain, snow, and wind. The ceramic granules help reflect UV rays, preventing premature deterioration. Additional roofing components like underlayment, sheathing, and flashing enhance durability and weather resistance.

Types of Asphalt Shingles

3-Tab Shingles

3-Tab Shingles

A budget-friendly option, 3-tab shingles have a uniform, flat appearance and typically last between 15 and 20 years. However, they are less durable and more susceptible to wind and weather damage.

Architectural Shingles

Architectural Shingles

Also known as laminated shingles, architectural shingles have multiple asphalt layers, providing enhanced durability and a dimensional look. They generally last 25 to 30 years and offer better wind resistance.

Dimensional Shingles

Dimensional Shingles

A premium option, dimensional shingles provide superior durability and an attractive aesthetic. Their increased thickness improves resistance to extreme weather and extends their lifespan beyond 30 years when properly maintained.

Benefits of Asphalt Shingles

Homeowners prefer asphalt shingles because they are cost-effective, easy to install, and available in a variety of colors and styles. They perform well in diverse weather conditions and are compatible with different roof styles and pitches.

Lifespan and Durability

Asphalt shingles typically last 15 to 30 years, depending on installation quality, climate, and maintenance. Extreme weather conditions such as storms, high winds, and prolonged sun exposure can shorten their lifespan. Regular inspections and timely repairs help maximize longevity.

Maintenance and Care

Moss Growth

Annual roof inspections and after-storm checks help identify curling, cracking, or missing shingles. Keeping gutters clean prevents water damage, while addressing moss, algae, and lichen growth helps avoid moisture retention. Using a roof-safe cleaning solution and ensuring adequate attic ventilation extend roof life. Never power wash a roof, as high-pressure water can strip away granules and damage shingles.

Signs You Need to Replace Asphalt Shingles

Beyond Servicable Life

Common indicators of a failing roof include curling, cracking, or missing shingles, granule loss, attic leaks, and visible water stains on ceilings. If these issues arise, a professional inspection is recommended.

Roll Roofing vs. Asphalt Shingles

Roll roofing is a cost-effective solution for low-slope structures like sheds, garages, and secondary roof sections. While easy to install, it is less durable than asphalt shingles. It is sometimes used on areas not visible from the ground as a budget-conscious alternative.

Essential Roofing Components

Sheathing and Structural Considerations

Older roofs may have 3/8-inch sheathing, which is prone to sagging. Upgrading to 1/2-inch or 5/8-inch sheathing during roof replacement improves structural integrity. Zip System sheathing, featuring an integrated weather barrier, enhances moisture resistance and reduces the need for traditional underlayment.

Flashing Materials and Benefits

Flashing prevents water intrusion at roof joints and penetrations. Options include:

  • Copper: Durable, corrosion-resistant, and long-lasting but costly.
  • Aluminum: Lightweight, rust-resistant, and affordable but may corrode in coastal areas.
  • Steel: Galvanized or coated steel offers durability but requires maintenance.

Ice and Water Shielding

This self-adhering underlayment protects against leaks caused by wind-driven rain and ice dams. Typically installed in valleys, eaves, and around penetrations, it extends at least 24 inches from the roof edge. Standard rolls are 36 inches wide, though 18-inch rolls are available. When extra coverage is needed, multiple layers can be applied to meet specific requirements.

Ice Damming and Roof Protection

 

Ice dams form when melted snow refreezes at the eaves, preventing proper drainage. This leads to water backing up under the shingles, causing leaks and structural damage. Proper attic insulation and ventilation help maintain consistent roof temperatures, reducing ice dam risks. Ice and water shielding provides an additional protective layer against water infiltration.

 

Shingle Weight and Structural Considerations

Shingles vary in weight per square, impacting the load a roof must support. Heavier shingles, such as premium dimensional options, add extra weight, which may not be suitable for older structures or regions with heavy snow loads. Before upgrading to heavier shingles, homeowners should ensure their roof structure can handle the additional weight.

Environmental Impact and Recycling

Many recycling programs repurpose old asphalt roof shingles for road construction and other applications. Homeowners can also choose energy-efficient shingles with reflective coatings to reduce heat absorption and cooling costs.

Final Thoughts

Asphalt shingles offer an affordable and durable roofing solution. Proper maintenance, timely repairs, and selecting the right materials extend a roof’s lifespan and protect a home’s structural integrity. Regular inspections help prevent costly damage and ensure long-term reliability.

At On Point Home Inspections, we provide expert inspections, empowering informed home purchases.  We are your trusted inspection professionals, offering a full range of inspection services in Wilton, Norwalk, Stamford, Darien, New Canaan, and throughout Fairfield County, as well as across Connecticut and New York.  Contact On Point Home Inspections to schedule with us today!

 

 

 

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Understanding Air Radon: What Every Homeowner Needs to Know

What Is Radon Testing?

Radon testing is essential because radon is a radioactive gas that forms naturally when uranium breaks down in soil, rock, and water. It is invisible, odorless, and tasteless, making it difficult to detect without proper testing. Since radon is a gas, it can move through the soil and enter homes, accumulating to dangerous levels if not properly mitigated.

Where Does Radon Come From?

This gas is released from the natural decay of uranium found in soil, rock, and water. It rises through the ground and enters homes through cracks in foundations, walls, and floors. Homes with basements or crawl spaces are particularly vulnerable, but even those built on slabs can be affected. Radon can also enter through well water, releasing gas when the water is used for bathing, cooking, or drinking.

Why Is Radon Dangerous?

Exposure to radon presents serious radon exposure risks because it is the second leading cause of lung cancer, following smoking. Long-term exposure significantly increases the risk, particularly for smokers. The radioactive particles inhaled from radon decay damage lung tissue over time, leading to an increased chance of developing cancer. Because radon has no smell or taste, many homeowners are unknowingly exposed for years before discovering high levels in their homes.

How Does Radon Enter Homes?

Radon seeps into homes through multiple entry points. The most common ways are cracks in foundations, basement floors, and walls. It can also enter through openings around pipes, sump pumps, and drains. Homes with crawl spaces are at higher risk because radon can easily move through the soil and enter through gaps in flooring. Poor ventilation can negatively impact home air quality and cause radon to accumulate indoors, creating higher concentrations. Well water may also introduce radon into a home’s air during daily activities like showering or washing dishes.

Do Radon Levels Change Over Time?

Radon levels fluctuate throughout the year. During the winter, homes are sealed tightly to conserve heat, which can trap radon inside and lead to higher concentrations. In summer, increased ventilation and open windows may help lower radon assessment. Heavy rains and changes in barometric pressure can also influence radon concentrations, as shifting soil conditions affect how much radon escapes into the air. Because of these fluctuations, testing at different times of the year provides a more accurate assessment of radon detection in a home.

Can Renovations Affect Radon Levels?

Renovations can impact radon levels by altering the way air flows within a home. Major structural changes, such as finishing a basement, adding new rooms, or installing energy-efficient windows and doors, can trap radon inside. Sealing a basement can reduce natural ventilation, increasing radon accumulation. If any significant changes have been made to a home’s structure, it is recommended to retest for radon to ensure levels have not risen.

Radon Testing Methods

There are two main ways to test for radon: passive and active testing. Charcoal canisters are a passive test method that absorbs radon over a set period, typically two to seven days. Once the test is complete, the canister is sent to a laboratory for analysis. While this method is affordable and simple, it does not provide real-time results or long-term monitoring. Continuous Radon Monitors (CRM) are active devices that provide real-time radon readings. These monitors are typically used by professionals and offer greater accuracy and consistency in measuring radon levels over time. CRMs detect fluctuations, allowing homeowners to see patterns in radon concentration.

What Are Safe and Dangerous Radon Levels?

Radon is measured in picocuries per liter (pCi/L). The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) considers radon levels of 4.0 pCi/L or higher to be dangerous and recommends mitigation. However, even levels between 2.0 and 4.0 pCi/L pose a health risk, and some homeowners opt to reduce radon at lower levels for additional safety. There is no completely safe level of radon, as exposure to any amount carries some risk. The EPA suggests taking action at levels of 4.0 pCi/L or higher, while the World Health Organization (WHO) recommends mitigation for levels exceeding 2.7 pCi/L. Many homeowners choose to install a mitigation system even at lower levels as part of their lung cancer prevention strategy.

How Do Radon Mitigation Systems Work?

Radon mitigation systems prevent radon from accumulating inside the home by venting it outdoors. The most common type is a sub-slab depressurization system, which involves drilling a hole in the foundation and installing a pipe to draw radon from beneath the home. A fan is then installed to continuously pull radon gas from the soil and vent it outside, where it dissipates harmlessly. Other radon reduction methods include drain tile suction, which uses existing drainage systems to collect and redirect radon gas, and crawl space ventilation, which increases airflow to reduce radon concentration.

How Is a Radon Mitigation System Installed?

A professional radon removal installer begins by assessing the home’s structure and foundation. A suction point is created by drilling into the slab or basement floor. A PVC pipe is inserted and connected to a venting system that runs either through the home’s exterior wall or up through the attic. A fan is installed to maintain constant airflow, drawing radon from beneath the foundation and expelling it outside. The installer may also seal cracks and openings in the foundation to improve the system’s efficiency. After installation, a follow-up radon test ensures that levels have been successfully reduced.  Watch a video on installing a radon mitigaton system here.

Radon Testing Frequency

Homeowners should test for radon every two years, as levels can change over time due to environmental factors and structural modifications. If a home has undergone renovations or a mitigation system has been installed, retesting is recommended to confirm its effectiveness. Buyers and sellers should also test for radon during real estate transactions to ensure the home is safe.

Do You Need to Test If You Have a Mitigation System?

Even if a radon mitigation system is in place, periodic testing is necessary to confirm that it is functioning effectively. Fans and other system components can wear out over time, leading to increased radon levels. Testing every two years ensures that a home remains safe from radon exposure.

On Point Home Inspections is a Certified Indoor Air Quality Consultant based in Wilton, Connecticut. We offer radon measurement services in Wilton, Norwalk, Stamford, Darien, New Canaan, and throughout Fairfield County, as well as across Connecticut and New York. Call On Point Home Inspections to schedule a radon test today!

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Understanding Your Home’s Private Well System

A private well provides water from underground sources, pumping groundwater into your home for drinking, bathing, and other daily activities. Unlike city water, well owners are responsible for maintaining water quality and system functionality. Understanding how a well system works helps homeowners ensure a safe and reliable water supply.

Types of Wells

Home wells come in three main types. Dug wells are shallow and lined with stone, brick, or concrete, making them more vulnerable to contamination from surface water and pollutants. Driven wells are slightly deeper and provide better protection, but they still face contamination risks. Drilled wells, which extend much deeper underground, offer the best water quality and reliability, as they draw from cleaner groundwater sources that are less affected by surface pollutants.

Components of a Well System

Sanitary Well Cap

Non-Sanitary Well Cap

A well system includes several key components that ensure safe and efficient water delivery. The well cap is an important part, as it pr0tects the well opening from dirt, insects, and bacteria. A sanitary cap forms a proper seal to prevent contamination, whereas a non-sanitary cap lacks this feature and may allow pollutants to enter the well. Choosing a sanitary cap is essential for maintaining clean water.

  • The height of the well shaft above ground level is another crucial factor in well design. A well casing should extend at least 12 inches above the ground to prevent surface water contamination. Keeping the casing properly sealed and elevated helps protect against pollutants entering the well system.
  • The well pump is responsible for drawing water from the well into your home. There are two primary types: submersible pumps and jet pumps. Submersible pumps are placed deep inside the well and push water upward, making them ideal for drilled wells. Jet pumps are typically used for shallow wells and rely on suction to pull water to the surface.
  • The pressure tank plays a crucial role in regulating water pressure and preventing frequent pump cycling. By storing water and maintaining consistent pressure, it ensures a steady flow throughout the home. Without a properly functioning pressure tank, homeowners may experience fluctuating water pressure or increased strain on the well pump, leading to premature wear and tear.
  • Constant pressure pumps help maintain a consistent water pressure throughout the home by adjusting pump speed based on demand. Unlike traditional pumps that operate in cycles, constant pressure pumps use variable speed technology to match water usage, preventing sudden drops in pressure. These pumps are ideal for homes with high water demand, such as those using irrigation systems or multiple appliances simultaneously.
  • A pressure regulating switch is a device that helps control water pressure by turning the pump on and off at preset pressure levels. This switch ensures the well system maintains an optimal pressure range, typically between 40-60 psi. If the pressure drops below the lower limit, the switch activates the pump to restore pressure. Once the upper limit is reached, the pump shuts off, preventing over-pressurization and damage to plumbing fixtures.
  • Water storage tanks are essential for homeowners who require additional water capacity. These tanks hold a reserve supply, ensuring a steady flow of water even during high-demand periods. Storage tanks help stabilize pressure, reduce pump cycling, and provide backup water in case of pump failure. Flow rates and water pressure are key factors in well performance. The flow rate, measured in gallons per minute (GPM), indicates how much water the well can supply at a given time. A lower-than-expected flow rate may indicate a problem with the pump or the well’s recharge rate. Water pressure should be consistent throughout the home, typically ranging between 40-60 psi for optimal function.

Water Treatment Systems

Since well water is untreated, homeowners often install filtration and softening systems to improve water quality. Filtration systems remove contaminants such as dirt, sand, and debris. Carbon filters help reduce odors, chlorine, and organic pollutants, while reverse osmosis systems provide the highest level of purification, making water safe for drinking and cooking. Additionally, water radon systems help mitigate radon gas, a naturally occurring element that can dissolve into well water from surrounding soil and rock.

Inline Filter

Filters that are commonly used for improving water quality are inline filters, ultra-violet filters, and whole-house conditioners. Inline filters are installed in the plumbing system to remove sediment and debris before the water reaches appliances and fixtures. Ultra-violet filters use UV light to kill bacteria and other microorganisms, providing an added layer of protection against harmful pathogens. Whole-house conditioners treat water at the main entry point, helping to maintain consistent water quality throughout the home.

Water Softener

Water softeners address hard water issues by removing excess minerals such as calcium and magnesium. Hard water can lead to scale buildup in pipes and appliances, reducing efficiency and causing damage over time. A softener uses salt to regenerate and flush away accumulated minerals, ensuring softer, cleaner water.

Softener backwashing is an essential process that cleans the softener resin by flushing out trapped minerals. However, it is important to avoid discharging backwash water into a septic system. The high salt content in softener discharge can disrupt the beneficial bacteria within the septic tank, leading to reduced system efficiency and potential failure. Instead, homeowners should direct softener discharge to a separate drain field or another designated location.

Water Testing and Safety

Regular testing ensures that well water remains safe for consumption. Homeowners should test for bacteria, including coliform and E. coli, to detect contamination. Nitrate and nitrite levels should also be monitored, as high concentrations can pose serious health risks, particularly for infants. pH levels indicate whether water is too acidic or alkaline, which can affect plumbing and appliance longevity. Testing for hardness and minerals helps determine whether a water softener is necessary, while radon testing ensures the water is free from harmful gases that could pose long-term health risks.

The Connecticut Department of Public Health recommend testing well water anually, because water conditions can change over time. Regular testing allows homeowners to address potential issues before they become serious health hazards.

Irrigation Systems and Well Water

Homeowners often wonder if they can use their well for an irrigation system. The answer depends on the well’s capacity and flow rate. An irrigation system requires a steady and sufficient supply of water, which may put additional strain on a residential well. Before installing an irrigation system, homeowners should evaluate their well’s production rate to ensure it can handle the extra demand without causing shortages for household use. Installing a separate irrigation pump or using a storage tank can help manage water usage efficiently.

Final Thoughts

Owning a home with a private well requires regular maintenance and a proactive approach to water quality. Proper filtration, water softening, and periodic testing are essential to ensuring clean and safe drinking water. By understanding the key components of a well system and taking the necessary precautions, homeowners can maintain a reliable water supply for their household.

If you need a home inspection or water quality test, contact On Point Home Inspections today!

 

 

 

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Buried Oil Tanks: Hidden Hazards for Homeowners and Buyers

The Hidden Danger of Buried Oil Tanks

Buried oil tanks were once common for heating homes. Many older properties still have them underground. But they can pose serious risks to homeowners and buyers.

If an oil tank leaks, it can contaminate soil and groundwater. Cleanup is costly, and real estate transactions can be complicated. Knowing how to detect and remove a buried oil tank is essential.

Why Are Buried Oil Tanks a Problem?

Buried oil tanks can cause environmental hazards and financial burdens. When these tanks deteriorate, they can leak, leading to soil and groundwater contamination. Cleaning up this pollution can be expensive, and in some cases, homeowners are legally responsible for the remediation costs. Even if the tank isn’t leaking, its presence can create complications when selling a home. Many mortgage lenders require a tank inspection before approving a loan, and home insurance companies may refuse coverage for properties with buried oil tanks. Buyers are often wary of purchasing a home with a potential environmental liability, which can delay or derail a sale.

Beyond the financial concerns, environmental risks are significant. A leaking oil tank can spread contaminants far beyond the property line, affecting neighboring yards, local water sources, and underground utility lines. Even if a leak is contained, the presence of an abandoned tank can make it difficult to conduct other home improvements, such as landscaping or foundation repairs. Many municipalities have strict regulations regarding oil tank removal, making it necessary for homeowners to act promptly if they discover one on their property.

How to Tell If You Have a Buried Oil Tank

Several signs may indicate the presence of a buried oil tank. Old fill or vent pipes sticking out of the ground, often near the house, are a common indicator. A petroleum odor or stained soil in the yard could signal a leak. If the home previously used oil heat, there may still be an underground tank. Unexplained depressions or sinking areas in the yard might suggest a deteriorating tank underground. Additionally, abandoned oil tank lines passing through a foundation wall can indicate that an underground tank once existed. Homeowners should carefully inspect their property for any of these clues.

A historical review of the property may also provide evidence. Reviewing old blueprints, records of heating system installations, or speaking with previous homeowners can provide more insight. In some cases, local governments or environmental agencies may have records of oil tank installations and removals. A thorough property assessment, including visual inspection and record research, can help confirm the presence of a tank before testing begins.

How to Confirm a Buried Oil Tank

If you suspect an underground oil tank, professional testing can confirm its presence. Specialists use metal detectors and ground-penetrating radar (GPR) to locate tanks. If a tank is suspected, soil testing is the next step to determine if contamination exists. A licensed environmental consultant will take soil samples near the suspected tank and analyze them for petroleum traces. If contamination is found, cleanup may be required before selling the property or proceeding with any home renovations.

Soil testing involves collecting samples from various depths and locations around the suspected tank. These samples are analyzed in a lab to measure levels of petroleum hydrocarbons, which indicate the extent of contamination. If high levels of contamination are detected, more aggressive remediation steps may be required. In some cases, property owners must report contamination to environmental authorities and follow state-mandated cleanup procedures.

How to Remove a Buried Oil Tank

The first step in oil tank removal is hiring a certified environmental contractor. A licensed professional will ensure compliance with local regulations and obtain necessary permits. Before excavation, any remaining oil inside the tank is pumped out to prevent spills. The area is then dug up, and the tank is carefully removed. If contamination is detected, additional soil may need to be excavated and replaced. Post-removal soil testing confirms whether further remediation is required. Once the process is complete, the homeowner receives a closure report, which is essential for future real estate transactions as proof that the tank was safely removed.

Tank removal is not always straight forward. If the tank is located under a driveway, patio, or other structure, additional steps may be needed to safely extract it without causing property damage. In some cases, homeowners may need to excavate large portions of their yard to access the tank, leading to additional landscaping costs. If a leak has spread contaminants into a neighboring property, legal issues may arise, requiring further remediation efforts.

When removing a buried oil tank, it is also important to document each step of the process. Keeping detailed records, including photographs, permits, and soil test results, can protect homeowners from future liabilities. Some states and municipalities offer financial assistance or grants for oil tank removal, helping to offset costs for property owners dealing with unexpected contamination issues.

 

For a visual guide on oil tank removal, watch this video:    How to Remove a Buried Oil Tank.

The Cost of Oil Tank Removal and Remediation

Oil tank removal costs vary depending on location, tank size, and the extent of contamination. On average, homeowners can expect to pay between $2,000 and $5,000 for removal. If soil contamination is detected, cleanup costs can range from $5,000 to $20,000 or more, depending on severity. In extreme cases, contamination can spread to groundwater, requiring extensive remediation efforts that cost tens of thousands of dollars.

Insurance coverage for oil tank removal and remediation depends on the policy. Some homeowners’ insurance policies may cover costs related to contamination, while others exclude oil tanks from coverage. It is essential to check with your insurance provider and consider additional coverage if necessary.

Preventative Measures and Best Practices

If you discover an unused buried oil tank on your property, acting proactively can prevent future problems. Regularly inspecting the area for signs of leaks, maintaining detailed property records, and performing soil tests if concerns arise can help avoid costly remediation. If you are purchasing a home with a history of oil heating, request documentation on past tank removals or inspections before finalizing the sale.

In some cases, homeowners opt to decommission an oil tank rather than remove it. Decommissioning involves cleaning the tank, filling it with an inert material (such as sand or foam), and sealing it to prevent leaks. While this method is sometimes allowed, it may not be acceptable in all jurisdictions. Some buyers and lenders still prefer complete removal to eliminate future risks.

Protect Your Investment

Buried oil tanks pose financial and environmental risks. If you suspect one on your property, act fast. A professional inspection and safe removal can prevent costly problems.

If you are buying a new home or selling your current home, call On Point Home Inspections  for a thorough inspection.

Want to learn More about Underground Storage Tanks? Visit https://www.epa.gov/ust/learn-about-underground-storage-tanks#what

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How Septic Systems Work: A Complete Guide for Homeowners

Septic systems are essential for homes not connected to municipal sewer lines. They treat and dispose of wastewater safely. Understanding how they work helps homeowners maintain their systems and avoid costly repairs. For additional guidance on maintaining your septic system, visit the EPA Septic System Information page.

What Is a Septic System?

A septic system is an underground wastewater treatment structure that processes sewage from toilets, sinks, and other household drains. Proper maintenance keeps it functioning efficiently for decades. For more details on what a septic system is, visit ACTAT.

How a Septic System Works

Wastewater from household drains enters the septic tank, where solids settle, and grease rises. Anaerobic bacteria break down organic matter, reducing the volume of solids. The liquid, or effluent, then moves to the drain field, where it undergoes further filtration. The surrounding soil absorbs and treats the liquid, allowing clean water to return safely to the environment. More details on septic system maintenance can be found in Septic System Maintenance Tips.

Key Components of a Septic System

A standard septic system has several important components:

Septic Tank

The septic tank is a large, watertight container made of concrete, fiberglass, or plastic. It holds wastewater long enough for solids to settle and form sludge, while lighter materials like grease and oils float to the top, creating scum. The remaining liquid flows into the drain field.

Inlet and Outlet Pipes

Inlet and outlet pipes move wastewater in and out of the septic tank. The inlet pipe carries wastewater from the home, while the outlet pipe allows treated liquid to exit the tank and move to the drain field.

Drain Field

The drain field, also known as the leach field, consists of a network of perforated pipes buried in gravel or sand. The liquid from the septic tank spreads out and percolates into the soil, where it is filtered and treated before returning to the groundwater.

Soil and Bacteria

Soil and naturally occurring bacteria play a crucial role in breaking down harmful pathogens, removing contaminants before the water re-enters the environment.

Distribution Boxes and Cleanouts

A distribution box (D-box) evenly distributes effluent from the septic tank to the various drain field lines. It ensures wastewater is spread uniformly, preventing overloading in one section of the drain field. If a D-box becomes clogged or misaligned, it can lead to uneven drainage and system failure.

Cleanouts are access points in the septic system that allow homeowners and professionals to inspect and clear blockages in the pipes. They are typically located along the main line leading to the septic tank or in key sections of the drain field. Regular use of cleanouts helps prevent backups and keeps the system functioning efficiently.

Sizing a Septic System for Your Home

A common misconception is that a septic tank size is based on how many bathrooms are in a home.  The septic system size is actually determined by the number of bedrooms in a home. The larger the home, the larger the septic tank and drain field required.

  • 3 bedrooms: Minimum 1,000-gallon tank
  • 4 bedrooms: Minimum 1,250-gallon tank
  • 5 bedrooms: Minimum 1,500-gallon tank

The drain field size also varies based on soil type, percolation rate, and daily wastewater flow. A professional evaluation ensures the system meets household needs.

Types of Leaching Fields

Different types of leaching fields are used depending on soil conditions, space availability, and environmental factors:

Conventional Gravel/Stone Drain Field

This is the most common type. It uses perforated pipes placed in a bed of gravel or crushed stone. The wastewater is filtered as it percolates through the gravel and soil.

Chamber System

A chamber system replaces gravel with plastic chambers. This design allows for better wastewater distribution and is ideal for areas with high water tables or poor soil drainage.

Drip Distribution System

This system uses small drip tubing to evenly distribute wastewater across a larger area. It is often used on properties with limited space or shallow soil conditions.

Mound System

For areas with high groundwater or shallow soil, a mound system is used. It consists of a raised mound of sand and gravel where wastewater is treated before entering the natural soil.

Sand Filter System

A sand filter system uses a bed of sand to treat wastewater before it reaches the soil. It provides additional filtration and is ideal for locations with poor natural filtration capabilities.

Pump-Up Systems and Pump Chambers

In some septic systems, a pump-up system is required when the drain field is located at a higher elevation than the septic tank. These systems use a pump chamber to collect effluent before pumping it to the drain field. The pump chamber contains a submersible pump, control floats to regulate water levels, and an alarm system to signal malfunctions. Pump-up systems ensure proper wastewater distribution when gravity drainage is not possible.

Septic Alarm Systems and Battery Backups

Septic alarm systems monitor water levels in the pump chamber and alert homeowners to potential issues before they become major problems. These alarms sound or flash when the water level is too high or when the pump is not functioning correctly. Installing a battery backup for the pump-up system is essential in case of power outages. Battery backups keep the pump running, preventing overflows and system failures during emergencies.

Sewer Scope Camera Benefits

Using a sewer scope camera during a septic inspection provides valuable insights into the condition of your system. A small, waterproof camera is inserted into the pipes to check for blockages, leaks, root intrusions, or signs of damage. This technology helps identify problems early, preventing costly repairs and system failures. It also provides visual confirmation of pipe integrity, ensuring that the septic system is functioning efficiently.

Maintenance and Best Practices

To keep a septic system working properly, homeowners should schedule regular pumping every three to five years, depending on household size and tank capacity. Avoid overloading the system by fixing leaks and spreading out laundry loads to prevent excess water from entering the tank. Be mindful of what goes down the drain—only flush human waste and toilet paper, and avoid grease, coffee grounds, and non-biodegradable items.

Protect the drain field by keeping vehicles and heavy structures off the area and ensuring proper drainage to prevent flooding. Use septic-safe cleaning products and minimize harsh chemicals that could kill beneficial bacteria.

Signs of Septic System Problems

Common warning signs of septic failure include slow draining sinks and toilets, gurgling sounds in plumbing, sewage odors in the yard, wet or unusually green grass over the drain field. If any of these issues arise, immediate action is needed to prevent further damage.

Remember

A septic system is a vital part of many homes. Regular maintenance ensures efficiency and prevents costly repairs. Have On Point Home Inspections schedule a septic inspection for you today!

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